When dermaplaning first entered the skincare scene, a lot of people wrote it off as a fad. However, dermaplaning is a well-established, dermatologically-backed technique that painlessly exfoliates, giving you baby smooth skin at any age.
Whether you’re totally lost and asking yourself, “What is dermaplaning?” or you’ve already heard of it and are trying to figure out if it’s the right skincare treatment for you, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know.
What Is a Dermaplaning Facial?
Essentially, dermaplaning is a physical exfoliating treatment that removes the peach fuzz (also called vellus hair) off of your face, getting rid of built up dead skin cells and unclogging your pores. In addition to giving your skin a deep cleaning, the products you put on after a session will better penetrate your skin, making your clean skincare routine even more effective.
What Is the Dermaplaning Process Like?
While it’s possible to give yourself a dermaplane treatment at home, considering there’s a sharp object involved, we recommend getting it done by a professional. Especially since it can be added to supplement many types of facials and skin treatments.
A dermatologist or trained esthetician can complete the whole dermaplaning process in less than 30 minutes, leaving you with immediate, long-lasting results.
Here’s how it works:
- Your dermatologist or esthetician will prep a small surgical scalpel with rubbing alcohol
- They’ll hold your skin tight and position the scalpel at a 45-degree angle
- Working in one direction, they’ll start shaving off your dead skin and excess fine hair
- A Hydrating Serum, like Regenerating Skin Nectar will be applied to your skin, or you’ll be given a separate facial
A dermaplaning facial could mean you’re getting just a dermaplane treatment with minimal aftercare, or a treatment in addition to a full-on facial, so be sure to ask your esthetician to clarify their process beforehand.
Dermaplaning can have a hugely varied price tag, making it hard to tell exactly what the session will entail.
How Much Does Dermaplaning Cost?
On average, dermaplaning costs around $100, but can range between $50 and $250.
Depending on where you go and where you live, the price of a dermaplaning treatment will vary. The biggest factor in cost is whether or not you’re having other treatments done during the same session. If you’re just looking to have a stand-alone dermaplaning treatment, it could cost around $100, but it could be only $50 if you add it to another facial or chemical peel, costing you around $250 total.
Is Shaving Your Face the Same as Dermaplaning?
One of the biggest reasons people prefer to get this treatment done professionally is because it requires a dermaplaning tool. While using a delicate razor designed for facial use, like an eyebrow razor, is a DIY alternative, you will not get the same results.
Does Your Hair Grow Back Thicker After Dermaplaning?
It’s time to debunk an age-old myth: shaving does not actually make your hair grow back thicker or darker. This is true of any sort of hair removal, including dermaplaning.
Doctors have proven that shaving unwanted hair, no matter what method you use, doesn’t change its thickness, coarseness, color, or growth speed 1 . The reason why it feels like it does is because your hair is growing back in with a blunt tip rather than laying flat like you’re used to.
How Often Do You Need to Get Dermaplaning Treatments?
If hair regrowth is your major concern, you’ll be happy to know that easy upkeep is one of the major benefits of dermaplaning. Vellus hairs grow back slowly, so you won’t have to over-exfoliate just to keep your peach fuzz at bay. Most dermatologists recommend waiting at least a full month between treatments, and even longer for people with sensitive skin.
What Are the Benefits of Dermaplaning?
Soft skin and easy upkeep aren’t the only benefits of dermaplaning. People swear by this exfoliating hair removal technique for a reason.
Here’s a list of all the benefits of dermaplaning you can expect from even just one treatment:
- Clear skin – Removing weeks worth of dead skin will open up all your pores and de-gunk your hair follicles, both of which are responsible for pesky pimples and small bumps.
- Better absorption of skincare products – Without all of that skin buildup, your serums, creams, and face masks will finally be able to penetrate your skin in a way they never could before.
- Smooth makeup application – Foundation and powder makes your peach fuzz more noticeable than ever. Having a smooth canvas will help your makeup look flawless every time.
- Brighter skin – That post-facial glow you get after a typical exfoliating treatment reaches a new level when the skin you’re presenting to the world is the most youthful, freshest layer of skin you have.
- Stimulates cell turnover and collagen – As all skincare fanatics know, collagen is a huge part of having plump, firm skin. By sloughing the outer layers of skin, the other layers create new cells in response, stimulating the collagen and elastin proteins found in the skin’s middle layer.2
- Helps with fine lines and wrinkles – Can reduce and prevent wrinkles through the production of collagen and help remove the fine lines that exist on the outer layer of your skin.
- Reduces dark spots and scars – Acne scars and hyperpigmentation spots continue to be removed through each session until the spots are gone completely—a much quicker process than waiting for discolored spots to fade on their own.
Confidence – Having an even, healthy, youthful glow is bound to make anyone feel amazing—especially when you look that good every day for a month.
Tips for Before and After Dermaplaning
Even with all the benefits of dermaplaning, sitting down for a dermaplaning facial for the first time can be nerve racking—after all, you are letting someone put a blade against your face.
Keep reading for some important tips before dermaplaning and post-treatment aftercare.
What Should You Do Before Dermaplaning?
Here are some pre-treatment tips to follow to make sure you get the best results:
- Don’t exfoliate for a week – Seven days before your session, stop using all exfoliants, both physical (like scrubs and microbead cleansers) and chemical (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes, lactic acid, salicylic acid, retinoids, and other anti-aging products).
- Don’t remove facial hair for two weeks – All facial hair removal (shaving, waxing, threading, plucking, etc.) should be stopped at least two weeks before dermaplaning so your skin can be in its most natural state.
Communicate with your doctor or esthetician – You’ll want to reconsider your treatment if you have an active breakout or any of the following medical conditions:
- Keratosis pilaris
- Polycystic ovaries disease (PCOS)
- Nickel allergy
What Should You Do After Dermaplaning?
Post-treatment, you should do the following:
Don’t exfoliate for a week – Give your skin time to heal by avoiding all exfoliants for at least a week. Depending on the ingredients in your facial wash, you may need to switch to a Gentle Cleanser.
- Hydrate – Make sure you drink tons of water and regularly use Regenerating Skin Nectar as a hydrating serum as well as an Ultra Nourishing Moisturiser between treatments.
Avoid sunlight – Avoid direct sunlight for two or three days immediately following dermaplaning and be diligent about applying Broad Spectrum Sunscreen.
Are There Ever Any Dermaplaning Complications?
Dermaplaning is low-risk. Your skin might be red or irritated after, but this usually doesn’t last long.
If you’ve heard horror stories of dermaplaning complications, these are often mixed up with a different process called dermabrasion. Similar name, completely different process.
Dermabrasion, also called microdermabrasion, uses micro-crystals or small beads to buff away dead skin, and can also include a suctioning technique for deeper exfoliation. While microtears in the skin are a great way to encourage cell turnover, dermabrasion tears can easily get out of hand, leading to infections and scarring. Thankfully, this process is rarely ever done anymore.
Post-Procedure Dermaplaning Products
In order to soak up and enjoy all the benefits of dermaplaning, you need to take care of your new skin—deep exfoliation strips your skin of moisture and makes it more susceptible to sun damage. Your post-procedure skincare routine will need to be gentle, hydrating, and skin-protecting.
Adding our dermatologist recommended products to your dermaplaning aftercare regimen will help you achieve your skincare goals by prolonging your new youthful glow. ALASTIN makes it easy to create a new post-procedure routine with our non-invasive cruelty-free Procedure Enhancement System that combines all the necessary steps into one simple package.
Between dermaplaning and our products, your skin will be the healthiest it's ever been.
1. Lawrence E. Gibson, M.D. “Does Shaved Hair Grow Back Thicker?” Mayo Clinic, Mayo Foundation for Medical Education and Research, 7 Aug. 2019, www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/expert-answers/hair-removal/faq-20058427.
2. Gardner, Stephanie S. “Skin Information: Layers of Skin, Keeping Skin Healthy, and More.” WebMD, WebMD, 14 June 2020, www.webmd.com/beauty/cosmetic-procedures-overview-skin